All Stories

Virgio expands demand-led fashion model to redefine global apparel standards

Virgio is aggressively transitioning from a traditional retail entity to an advanced, AI-driven manufacturing ecosystem, setting its sights on becoming the world’s preeminent on-demand fashion brand by 2030. Under the leadership of Founder and CEO Amar Nagaram, the company is systematically dismantling the industry-standard ‘forecast-led’ model - which often results in significant inventory wastage—in favor of a demand-led architecture. By deploying its proprietary AI engine, Tesla (Trend Early Signal Learning and Analysis), the brand identifies emerging style motifs within 24 to 72 hours. This technological edge allows Virgio to bypass conventional multi-month production cycles, launching samples and scaling successful designs to mass production in mere days.

REFER

Operationalizing sustainable scalability

The cornerstone of this model is ‘Made-on-Demand’ (MOD) manufacturing, which prioritizes inventory efficiency over speculative stocking. Rather than committing to large-scale production runs, Virgio initiates testing with batches as small as 20 to 30 units. Data-backed performance metrics then dictate the scale of subsequent manufacturing, with some best-selling silhouettes expanding to over 12,000 units based strictly on validated consumer interest. This strategy not only preserves capital but also addresses the systemic problem of overproduction, which continues to plague global fashion. By integrating digital product passports and QR-coded transparency labels, the brand is providing consumers with granular insights into the carbon footprint and material sourcing of every garment. Looking toward 2030, Virgio is further expanding its infrastructure to bridge the gap between aspirational style and ethical responsibility, aiming to prove that high-velocity fashion can be fundamentally decoupled from waste.

Offering inclusive-sized fashion

Founded in 2022 by Amar Nagaram, Virgio is a Bengaluru-based fashion-tech company. It specializes in sustainable apparel, inclusive-sized fashion, and luxury perfumes. Currently operating under a demand-led manufacturing model, the company aims to scale globally by 2030, backed by $37.8 million in funding from investors including Prosus and Naspers.

Virgio expands demand-led fashion model to redefine global apparel standards

KVIC Chief targets fashion industry's 'Export-Only' sustainability double standards

India’s fashion industry is operating under a glaring ethical split: cleaning up its environmental act for Western buyers while dumping irresponsible, opaque products on the domestic market.

Speaking at a fireside chat during 'Mumbai's Mega Post-Consumer Waste Collection & Upcycling Initiative' on World Environment Day (June 5), Roop Rashi, CEO of the Khadi and Village Industries Corporation (KVIC), called out this "export-only" approach to sustainability, demanding that Indian industrial leaders implement the same rigorous standards at home that they do abroad.

"Today, India is at a peculiar cusp," noted Rashi, who previously served as the nation's Textile Commissioner. "When regulations come in Europe, our people start doing sustainability, responsibly. We do it responsibly for the rest of the world, but we don't do it for ourselves. Industrial leaders have to make a conscious decision... to produce less, but more responsible products for my consumer domestically also, not only for the labels outside."

Confronting India's 8% waste crisis

The scale of the challenge is massive. India currently generates 8% of the world’s textile waste. Yet, Roop Rashi rejected the corporate narrative that the crisis can only be solved by halting production or relying on mega-scale, centralized recycling factories. Instead, she argued that textiles must be reframed as a perpetual resource rather than "waste," and managed through extreme localization.

"Textile is not waste till it cannot be recycled into any other product," Rashi asserted.

To bridge the gap between waste generation and conscious domestic consumption, Roop  Rashi called for absolute traceability. She urged manufacturers to clearly disclose resource footprints…such as water and energy consumption, giving domestic buyers an informed choice at the cash register.

Erasing the "Charity" mindset

A primary reason sustainable and traditional textiles struggle to compete domestically is how they are marketed. For decades, supporting local weavers has been framed as an act of philanthropy. Rashi argued that this patronizing attitude actively harms the industry.

"We should not think that when we are talking to an artisan that he is a bechara (helpless) artisan," Rashi said. "He actually possesses some special skill... It is not an artisan; it is an artist. Till we bring it to that higher plane, we will never follow it."

Demystifying the "magic" of spinning lower-length waste fibers into high-value fabrics is central to capturing younger consumers. Rashi highlighted a sharp behavioral shift over the last five years: the younger generation is actively willing to pay a premium for recycled apparel, but only if the product is genuinely traceable and fashionable. "If sustainability doesn't become fashionable, people will not put their money there," she added.

The "Lijjat Papad" blueprint for circularity

Rejecting the idea that circular fashion requires massive industrial centralization, Rashi pointed to deep-rooted Indian business models as the true roadmap.

She cited the iconic Shri Mahila Griha Udyog Lijjat Papad—which employs over 43,000 women across India through a highly distributed, decentralized network—as a benchmark for textile recycling. "Why can't we do that in a distributed way?" she asked, arguing that each city should independently manage its own textile resources.

To make this a reality, Rashi offered the full backing of the Ministry of Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises (MSME) and KVIC’s regional resources in Mumbai. Government schemes are available to hand-hold decentralized enterprises, offering training, traceability metrics, and the marketing infrastructure needed to scale upcycled products.

Culture as a shield against fast fashion

The discussion, chaired by Dr. Megha Phansalkar, Founder of social enterprise Tisser, also touched upon institutional interventions. Dr. Phansalkar shared how Bhutan effectively curbed fast fashion by legally mandating that citizens wear locally-woven traditional dress in public and government spaces.

While Rashi acknowledged that Prime Minister Narendra Modi has consistently urged citizens to adopt Khadi and handloom, institutional adoption in India remains restricted to a few ministries. While she avoided pitting traditional clothing against modern apparel; noting that modern fast fashion still drives massive agricultural and rural employment, she stressed that localizing production is the only viable path to achieving India's sustainability goals.

"If we do not localize, if we do not increase the potential from the local industry, sustainability will not come," Rashi concluded. "We must imbibe a pride in local manufacturing with less energy and less resource use. There should be pride in this value."

KVIC Chief targets fashion industry's 'Export-Only' sustainability double standards

Fashion’s New Geography: How pin codes are shaping retail expansion

For years, India's fashion and apparel retailers followed a familiar expansion formula, secure a prominent location in a premium mall, invest heavily in store aesthetics, launch with celebrity-driven campaigns, and expect footfalls to follow. That model is now losing relevance as consumer behaviour becomes more fragmented and location-specific.

A shift is underway across India's retail as the market moves toward an estimated Rs 95 lakh crore opportunity growing at nearly 9 per cent annually. Brands are discovering that success is no longer determined by city-level presence but by neighbourhood-level relevance. The real battleground is no longer Mumbai vs Delhi or Bengaluru vs Hyderabad. Instead, it is about understanding the purchasing behaviour of individual catchments, often separated by only a few kilometres. Experts say fashion retail has become a hyperlocal game where operational precision matters more than scale or spectacle.

Beyond store glamour

Many apparel brands continue to prioritise high-visibility investments such as elaborate store interiors, grand launch events and broad-based branding campaigns. However, retailers that outperform are often those that focus on less glamorous but more critical factors including product assortment, local spending patterns, seasonal preferences and conversion behaviour.

Factor

Focus category

What it measures/impacts

National Branding

Strategic / Macro

Overall market perception, trust, and consistency across all locations.

Brand Focus

Strategic / Macro

Core identity, value proposition, and the primary message to the consumer.

Product Mix & Ticket Size

Strategic / Macro

Merchandising strategy combined with the average amount a customer spends per transaction.

Local Buying Behaviour

Tactical / Micro

Regional preferences, cultural nuances, and specific purchasing habits of the immediate community.

Seasonal Demand & Conversion Psychology

Tactical / Micro

Timing-based shifts in consumer needs and the emotional/mental triggers that drive a browser to become a buyer.

Store Interiors

Tactical / Micro

The physical layout, lighting, ambiance, and sensory experience of the brick-and-mortar space.

Launch Events

Tactical / Micro

Experiential marketing tactics used to build immediate hype, awareness, and foot traffic.

Often Overlooked Factors

Tactical / Micro

Hidden operational variables, subtle friction points, or niche details that brands frequently miss but shouldn't.

The consequences of ignoring these factors can be significant. Estimates reval location-demand mismatches contributed to store closure rates of 10-15 per cent among several pan-India apparel retailers during FY25. At the same time, despite premium mall supply expected to expand by nearly 20 per cent across major cities by 2026, additional retail space is not necessarily translating into stronger sales productivity.

Retail executives note that inventory mistakes remain among the most expensive errors in fashion. Stocking the wrong merchandise for a catchment whether premium western wear in a value-conscious market; heavy winter collections in regions with limited seasonal demand, can lock up working capital for months and impact profit. The lesson is becoming clear: retail success is driven less by aesthetics and more by alignment with local demand.

Scale meets localisation

The growing importance of neighbourhood-level retail dynamics is also forcing large national an d international brands to rethink traditional expansion strategies. So far, apparel companies relied on economies of scale, standardised store formats and uniform merchandise planning across regions. However, rapidly diverging consumer preferences are making that model harder to sustain.

What works in an affluent South Mumbai neighbourhood may fail in a suburban Delhi catchment. Similarly, purchasing behaviour in Bengaluru's technology corridors differs significantly from that of emerging residential clusters in Tier-II cities. This shift has created opportunities for agile domestic brands, regional retailers and direct-to-consumer players that can respond more quickly to local demand signals. Larger retailers are adopting hybrid models that combine centralised supply chains with decentralised merchandising, pricing and marketing decisions.

The micro-market reality

Retail data increasingly highlights the contrast between India's macro growth story and the realities of localised demand.

Table: Macro opportunity vs micro-market dynamics

Market indicator

National/macro scale

Hyperlocal/micro reality

Retail imperative

Market Size & Growth

Rs 95 lakh cr  market, growing at 9% annually.

Nearly 100 pocket hotspots (just 10% of metro PIN codes) remain completely underserved.

Shift capital from saturated high-streets to high-potential neighborhoods.

Real Estate Supply

Gross leasing volume hit an all-time high of 12.5 million sq. ft.

High streets command a dominant 48% share over traditional shopping malls (45%).

Build leaner, highly optimized physical storefronts functioning as "local billboards".

Inventory Risk

One wrong inventory cycle can tie up millions in capital.

Catchments block working capital for months if product mix ignores regional preferences.

Curate assortment by neighborhood rather than using a corporate template.

Consumer Demographics

Broad push toward premiumization across urban centers.

Rapid rise of value fashion and organized retail in Tier-II/III cities.

Calibrate ticket sizes to local conversion psychology.

The data underscores a reality: retail strategies that succeed at a national level must increasingly be customised at a local level.

Lessons from the market

Several leading retailers have already adapted their operating models to reflect this shift.

Reliance Trends' local discovery play: With a network of over 2,400 stores, Reliance Trends has increasingly focused on localised digital visibility rather than relying solely on national campaigns. By using region-specific keywords, location-based marketing and customised store landing pages, the retailer has strengthened local customer discovery.

The approach reportedly generated a 20 per cent increase in direction requests, a 120 per cent rise in customer calls and a 110 per cent increase in map impressions, indicating that consumers are increasingly searching and shopping within their immediate vicinity.

Zudio's value-fashion formula: Among the most cited examples of hyperlocal retail success is Trent's Zudio. Rather than chasing premium mall locations, the value-fashion chain has built its expansion strategy around neighbourhood high streets and Tier-II and III markets. The retailer's merchandise strategy is tightly aligned with local affordability thresholds, with most products priced below ₹999. Combined with rapid inventory turnover and modest store investments, the model has enabled Zudio to scale while maintaining strong productivity levels. Its success demonstrates that understanding local purchasing power can often be more valuable than securing a prestigious retail address.

The cost of format mismatch

The risks of ignoring local nuances are equally evident. Experts say, instances where ethnic wear retailers entered Tier-II markets using the same luxury formats deployed in metros. In several cases, premium bridal assortments and expensive store designs failed to resonate with local demand patterns. However, when retailers reworked their product mix toward festive fusion wear, casual ethnic apparel and more accessible price points, store performance improved significantly, with some locations reportedly achieving profitability within two quarters.

As India's fashion retail sector continues to grow, the era of expansion driven primarily by brand visibility and scale appears to be giving way to a more disciplined approach centred on neighbourhood economics. Retailers are recognising that a successful expansion strategy depends not just on entering the right city but on understanding the right street, the right catchment and the right customer within that city.

For apparel brands facing a highly competitive market, the future may belong less to those with the largest stores and more to those with the deepest local insights. In India's next phase of retail growth, the winning strategy could be as simple and as complex as mastering the dynamics of a single neighbourhood.

Fashion’s New Geography: How pin codes are shaping retail expansion

NIFT International Conference 2026: Shaping the Future of Fashion & Design

NIFT International Conference Mumbai, India 22nd-23rd January 2026.

As National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) celebrates its 40th anniversary, the institution is hosting a conference rooted in a vision of inclusive futures. NIFT has through the years of its existence valued cultural and individual diversity and emphasized on the power of fellowship.

KNOW MORE

This conference takes NIFT’s commitment forward to embrace diverse perspectives, ensuring equitable opportunities, and advancing inclusive practices in the fashion and design community.

There have been transformative changes in the way design is viewed and practiced. Design is now responsible to make sense of complexity, digital technologies and disruptive business ideas.

Fashion Guru

And yet stand firm on responsible and ethical ground.

The NIFT International Conference 2026 seeks to foster meaningful dialogue, encourage collaboration among stakeholders, and shape a more inclusive and forward-thinking future in design.

Join our group

The conference includes plenary sessions of thought leaders, panel discussions, presentations of academic papers, posters, exhibitions showcasing student and Industry projects in the areas of adaptive clothing and technologies, workshops, fashion show and Craft bazaar where craft communities will display India’s rich artisanal heritage. 

CREDITS: Taken directly from NIFT nift.ac.in official id. The content has not been edited and reviewed by us.

Visit for more

 

 

 

 

 

NIFT

Latest Publications

Image

Join Our Group

Join Our Group