Santosh Katariya has been re-elected as President of the Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) for a second consecutive term. Confirming the development in a statement shared on Facebook, Katariya thanked committee members, office bearers, and industry peers for reaffirming their trust. Highlighting his roadmap for the apex trade body, Katariya wrote: "The past two years have been an enriching journey of learning, teamwork, and progress. As we begin this new term, I look forward to working with renewed energy and commitment, along with my entire team, to take CMAI to greater heights and create greater value for our members and the Indian apparel industry."

Policy Advocacy and manufacturing competitiveness

Katariya’s continued leadership comes as apparel manufacturers balance rising input expenses against price resistance across consumer retail markets. Small and medium enterprises, which form over 85 percent of India's readymade garment base, face tight operational liquidity, extended payment cycles, and margin volatility. Under Katariya, the association is prioritizing targeted policy dialogue with the central government, advocating for a dedicated domestic Production Linked Incentive framework, protection for MSME suppliers within commercial insolvency proceedings, and rationalized GST rate structures to safeguard organized trade flows against informal market substitution.

CMAI’s Institutional Growth: As industry anchor

Established over six decades ago in Mumbai, the Clothing Manufacturers Association of India functions as the country's primary institutional bridge across apparel design, production, and retail distribution. The association serves ready-to-wear manufacturers, garment exporters, regional trade bodies, and national department chains, providing market research, business mediation, and large-scale B2B sourcing trade fairs. Over the current operational cycle, CMAI aims to expand its active membership base toward 7,000 enterprises while scaling technical training, domestic market access, and ESG compliance frameworks across regional textile clusters.

Indian traditional textiles are moving beyond their historic identity as cottage-industry products to emerge as a scalable, premium segment within modern apparel and lifestyle retail. The global market for Indian ethnic and heritage wear is valued at about $250.03 billion and projected to cross $708 billion by 2035. The opportunity is being shaped by two parallel forces: formalisation of India’s domestic ethnic-wear market and growing interest among international fashion buyers in artisan-led, lower-impact materials.

The transition is significant because heritage textiles combine cultural differentiation with growing demand for natural fibres, traceable production and handcrafted products. The challenge, however, is converting fragmented artisanal capacity into a commercially reliable supply chain.

Table: Ethnic apparel opportunity, domestic volume, global value

Domestic demand broadens

India’s domestic ethnic and handloom apparel market is expected to grow from $22.8 billion in 2026 to $32.7 billion by 2032, riding on consumption moving beyond weddings and festivals. Saris remain the largest category, accounting for 38 per cent of domestic demand, while kurtas, fusion separates and coordinated sets are another 24 per cent. The latter are gaining traction as ethnic aesthetics become increasingly integrated into office, casual and occasion wardrobes.

Geography is also changing the market equation. Tier II and Tier III cities account for over 55 per cent of online apparel demand, highlighting the growing importance of non-metro consumers. Digital channels now capture about 42 per cent of ethnic-wear purchases, while repeat purchase rates are approaching 90 per cent. This combination of wider geographic reach and digital discovery is helping brands move heritage products from occasion-led consumption towards everyday fashion.

Yet formalisation has not eliminated weaknesses. Authentic handlooms continue to compete against cheaper powerloom and machine-made replicas. Cotton-price volatility can squeeze artisan and brand margins, while fragmented production across thousands of weaving clusters makes consistent procurement difficult.

Exports find a new proposition

India’s global opportunity is now tied to sustainability and cultural differentiation. Handicraft and handloom exports have reached $3.78 billion annually, with handprinted textiles and artisanal scarves recording a 16.5 per cent year-on-year increase. The US is the dominant destination, accounting for 38.69 per cent of shipments, followed by the UK, UAE, Germany and France.

 Table: Key markets and export growth opportunities

Western brands are also looking beyond conventional synthetic fabrics as circularity, traceability and sustainability requirements become more prominent. Materials such as Khadi, Eri silk, Chanderi and Ajrakh-dyed cotton offer a combination of natural fibres, artisanal provenance and distinctive design. For global fashion houses, these attributes can support premium positioning rather than competing purely on manufacturing cost.

Scale remains the bottleneck

The export opportunity is however constrained by the difference between artisanal production and organised retail requirements. International buyers typically demand consistent fabric specifications, colour fastness, chemical compliance and delivery within fixed 60-to-90-day wholesale cycles. Traditional processes such as open-air Ajrakh washing and weather-dependent drying can make production schedules unpredictable.

Exporters must also absorb international testing, certification, customs and compliance costs. This creates a commercial question: how can brands preserve handmade authenticity without sacrificing industrial predictability?

Emergence of hub-and-spoke model

A decentralised hub-and-spoke supply-chain model is emerging as one solution. Under this approach, brands retain design, product development and quality control at central hubs while production remains distributed across rural artisan clusters. Weaver groups can receive standardised yarn counts, pre-tested natural dyes and digital production-management systems.

The model allows brands to retain the provenance that makes heritage textiles commercially valuable while introducing the consistency demanded by modern retail. The experience of handloom clusters in Madhya Pradesh and Rajasthan highlights the potential. Organised apparel consortiums integrating standardised loom widths of 44 to 54 inches and digitised inventory systems have reduced production lead-time variance from 45 per cent to below 8 per cent.

Standardised Chanderi and Ajrakh yardages can then be converted into contemporary products such as trench coats, resort shirts and formal blazers for luxury boutiques in North America and Europe. The outcome is equally important for the artisan economy: real wage realisation has doubled while intermediate wholesale markups have been eliminated.

Fabindia shows the model

The Fabindia Group is an example of how artisan sourcing can be integrated with organised retail. Founded in 1960 by John Bissell, Fabindia has built its proposition around handloom apparel, home textiles and organic lifestyle products, working with extensive artisan and craft networks. Its retail, international and omnichannel operations demonstrate how decentralised craft production can be connected to a recognisable consumer-facing brand. The broader opportunity now lies in taking this model further from traditional product categories to contemporary global apparel.

Heritage becomes an asset

India’s heritage textile sector is entering a phase where cultural capital, sustainability and supply-chain engineering intersect. Domestic formalisation can provide the volume needed to strengthen artisan ecosystems, while exports offer access to higher-value markets. But sustained growth will depend on solving counterfeiting, standardisation, certification and delivery reliability without eroding the handmade character that differentiates Indian textiles.

The next phase, therefore, is unlikely to be about replacing craft with industrial production. It will be about building systems that allow craft to operate at commercial scale.

India has opened a new channel for foreign capital to participate directly in the country’s export sector, potentially changing how apparel and textile manufacturers reach overseas consumers. The government’s Press Note 3 (2026 Series), read with Directorate General of Foreign Trade (DGFT) Notification No. 27/2026-27, permits 100 per cent foreign direct investment (FDI) in inventory-based e-commerce exclusively for exports of domestically produced goods.

The move creates a regulatory distinction between domestic retail and export commerce. While foreign-backed platforms have faced restrictions for long on owning inventory for retail sales within India, the new framework allows foreign capital to acquire, warehouse and manage Indian goods destined exclusively for international markets. For apparel manufacturers, particularly MSMEs, the significance could extend beyond access to capital. It could bring logistics, working capital, inventory management and international fulfilment under a single institutional platform.

further pressure on the system.

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Export and domestic retail kept apart

The new framework introduces Paragraph 5.2.15.2.5 into the consolidated FDI policy, creating a dedicated route for export-oriented inventory e-commerce. The government has simultaneously built safeguards to ensure that export inventory does not enter the domestic marketplace.

Foreign e-commerce operators cannot simply use their existing domestic marketplace companies for export fulfilment. They must establish a separate legal entity functioning as an Exporter-on-Record (EOR). Inventory ownership is also linked to confirmed overseas orders, limiting the possibility of speculative stock accumulation. Each shipment must be digitally traceable to the original domestic Seller-on-Record (SOR), creating an audit trail from manufacturer to overseas customer.

The model also places a seven-day payment obligation on the EOR after acceptance of goods, potentially addressing one of the biggest constraints faced by smaller apparel manufacturers: elongated receivables cycles.

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Global balance sheets enter the logistics chain

For apparel clusters such as Tiruppur, Surat, Jaipur and Ludhiana, the biggest opportunity may lie in logistics rather than simply foreign investment. Small manufacturers have traditionally had to manage fragmented freight, international payment systems, compliance, customs and reverse logistics. These costs can significantly erode the economics of small overseas consignments.

Under the emerging E-Commerce Export Hub (ECEH) model, foreign-funded operators can invest in sorting infrastructure, pre-shipment quality checks, bonded warehousing and consolidated international logistics. Bulk movement from domestic production centres to overseas fulfilment hubs can potentially reduce per-unit shipping costs, while platforms assume a greater share of inventory, foreign-exchange and return-related risks.

The framework also offers direct pass-through of export-linked benefits such as RoDTEP and Duty Drawback to eligible manufacturing sellers, helping protect vendor economics. As Arvind Singhal, Chairman, Technopak Advisors points out, direct inventory ownership by global platforms transfers transit, foreign exchange, and working-capital drag away from small garment units. The manufacturer, he adds, can focus on production while the platform’s balance sheet manages overseas warehousing and associated risks.

EASITEX

Smaller batches can change factory economics

The most important commercial shift could be the movement away from large seasonal export orders towards smaller, more frequent production cycles.

The e-commerce model carries higher logistics costs as a percentage of sales, but potentially compensates through faster cash conversion, smaller production runs and lower counterparty risk.

A 45-loom casualwear manufacturer in Tiruppur, Cotton Craft International, is an example of this change. After allocating 30 per cent of its capacity to registered e-commerce export aggregators, the company reportedly reduced its working-capital cycle to below 20 days from a model characterised by payment periods exceeding 100 days.

Although margins under e-commerce fulfilment contracts are around 8-10 per cent tighter than peak direct export contracts, more predictable cash flows and lower international non-payment exposure have improved capital efficiency.

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Speed is the new export advantage

The policy arrives as India seeks to substantially increase the scale and sophistication of its textile and apparel exports. The country has set an ambition of taking textile and apparel exports towards $100 billion by 2030, with cross-border e-commerce potentially contributing as much as $10 billion.

That target requires Indian suppliers to compete not only on manufacturing costs but also on responsiveness. Global fashion platforms demand shorter lead times, smaller batches and frequent product refreshes. For manufacturers, that means moving away from production calendars built around 60-90 day seasonal commitments towards agile 10-15 day cycles where feasible.

This could particularly benefit categories such as knitwear, ethnic apparel, home textiles and digitally driven fashion, where product assortment can be tested in overseas markets without committing to conventional container-scale orders.

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Creating a digital export corridor

The ECEH framework effectively creates an institutional bridge between India's fragmented manufacturing base and global digital retail. Its significance will ultimately depend on how quickly export hubs, customs systems, logistics providers and foreign platforms integrate the model at scale. The compliance architecture is deliberately restrictive, but that separation could also provide confidence that export-oriented foreign investment will not distort India's domestic retail market.

For Indian apparel MSMEs, the bigger change is strategic: foreign capital is no longer entering only to build marketplaces. Under the export-only framework, it can potentially bring inventory ownership, fulfilment infrastructure and overseas consumer access closer to the factory gate.

If executed efficiently, the policy could turn cross-border e-commerce from an additional sales channel into a new export infrastructure layer for Indian apparel.

SUSTAINABILITY

India’s men’s innerwear market is moving beyond its traditional identity as a functional, price-led category, with premium brands positioning intimate wear around self-expression, romance and occasion-based consumption. For decades, men’s underwear was largely marketed through the language of durability, comfort and value, with cotton multi-packs dominating mass retail. A combination of rising disposable incomes, digital-first shopping and changing attitudes towards relationships and personal grooming is now creating space for a more expressive proposition.

The shift is particularly visible in urban markets, where consumers are becoming more willing to pay for fabric innovation, design and specialised products rather than treating innerwear purely as a replenishment purchase.

Growing premium pool

As per IMARC Group data, India’s overall innerwear market was valued at around $10.9 billion in 2025 and is projected to reach $19.8 billion by 2034, at 6.49 per cent CAGR. The male segment alone was estimated at $10.7 billion in 2025 and is projected to reach $16.5 billion by 2034. Within this market, premium male innerwear is emerging as a distinct value-creation opportunity.

Table: Indian innerwear market, the men’s share

The premium male segment is expected to grow from $815.8 million in 2025 to $1.40 billion by 2034, growing at 6.01 per cent annually. Although still a relatively small portion of the overall category, its faster growth reflects a willingness among sections of consumers to spend more on products that combine comfort, aesthetics and emotional relevance.

Intimacy enters the pitch

The evolution is also changing how brands communicate with male consumers. Traditional innerwear advertising has relied heavily on male Bollywood and cricket celebrities and themes such as confidence, athleticism and masculinity. Newer labels are experimenting with a different vocabulary centred on intimacy and relationships.

Indian luxury intimatewear label Undress, founded by Shradha Chaturvedi, is one example. Its positioning: ‘Intimatewear for men. Designed by her. For him’ places women at the centre of the brand's communication for a category dominated by male-centric imagery for long. The proposition is based on an apparent gap in the market: while women's lingerie has long been associated with mood, occasion and personal expression, men's underwear has largely remained functional. Chaturvedi says, when they studied the category, the whitespace was striking. According to her, improvements in comfort and fabrication have not been matched by an equivalent conversation around intimacy and occasion.

Actor and fashion personality Urvashi Rautela fronts the brand's nationwide campaign, reinforcing its attempt to build a shared conversation between partners rather than presenting intimatewear exclusively through a male lens.

Wedding are the best opportunity

For premium innerwear brands, India's wedding economy offers a potential growth engine. Wedding consumption is traditionally concentrated on visible categories such as bridal and groom couture, jewellery, accessories and beauty. However, brands are increasingly looking at the less visible parts of the wedding journey, including honeymoon travel, gifting and post-ceremony wardrobes. This creates an opportunity to convert innerwear from a routine purchase into an occasion-specific product.

Undress has structured its initial proposition around weddings, honeymoons, dating and gifting. Its 13-style debut collection combines Parisian-inspired design with Indonesian manufacturing and uses a 90 per cent MicroModal and 10 per cent Spandex. Priced between Rs 799 and Rs 1,399, the collection is positioned between mass-market innerwear and significantly more expensive international designer offerings. The strategy also reflects a broader retail trend: premiumisation does not necessarily require luxury-level pricing. Instead, brands can create perceived value through fabrication, design, packaging, storytelling and targeted occasions.

D2C tests the market

Digital-first brands have already shown that Indian men will pay a premium for differentiated innerwear. XYXX recorded operating revenue of Rs 187 crore in FY25, while Damensch reported Rs 118 crore. Both have helped establish modal-based fabrics, improved construction and comfort-led design as viable premium propositions.

However, the category remains challenging. Customer acquisition costs can be high for D2C businesses, while profits can take time as brands invest heavily in marketing, inventory and fulfilment. The next stage of growth will also require premium labels to move beyond India's major metros. Tier-II and Tier-III markets offer more volumes, but consumers there remain more price-sensitive and traditional distribution networks continue to play a strong role.

Retail gets more personal

Digital commerce nevertheless gives intimatewear an advantage that conventional innerwear retail often lacks: privacy. Discreet fulfilment and brand-owned websites can reduce the social discomfort associated with buying unconventional or premium intimate products. This can encourage consumers to experiment with new designs and fabrics without the constraints of a traditional retail counter.

For the broader sector, the opportunity is therefore less about replacing mass innerwear and more about creating new consumption occasions around it. As men's grooming, fashion and lifestyle spending meet, the garment beneath the outfit is becoming part of the consumer's broader identity. The groom's drawer, once dominated by functional multi-packs, could consequently become another premium retail battleground driven by weddings, relationships, gifting and the growing willingness to spend on products designed for private moments.

India’s fashion and apparel retailers are heading into the festive season with an unexpected new pressure on margins. The government’s decision to introduce a 0.4 per cent Merchant Discount Rate (MDR) on UPI person-to-merchant transactions above Rs 2,000 from October 15, capped at Rs 300 for ticket sizes of Rs 75,000 and above, has drawn resistance from industry trade bodies.

The impact is particularly significant for apparel because its average transaction value is substantially higher than that of everyday categories. While grocery and convenience purchases frequently remain below Rs 500, apparel bills typically range between Rs 2,500 and Rs 8,500, placing a large proportion of transactions within the levy.

Although consumers are not directly charged, retailers must absorb the cost. For independent stores operating with gross operating margins of around 12-18 per cent, even a seemingly small payment charge can become material during high-volume periods. The immediate concern is that retailers could begin encouraging cash payments or restructuring transactions to remain below the Rs 2,000 threshold.

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Festive sales meet fixed costs

The timing adds to the pressure. The festive quarter can account for as much as 40 per cent of annual revenue for garment manufacturers and multi-brand retailers, making the October-December period critical for inventory liquidation and cash generation.

The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India’s festive survey found 82 per cent of garment manufacturers expect sales to match or exceed last year’s levels, with 52 per cent anticipating higher offtake. At the same time, the Retailers Association of India’s Retail Business Survey Round 73 reported overall retail growth of about 8 per cent year-on-year heading into August.

For apparel retailers, the problem is that the cost structure for the festive season is already largely locked in. Autumn and festive merchandise is ordered months in advance from production centres including Tirupur, Surat and Ludhiana. Retailers therefore have limited scope to renegotiate supplier prices or materially alter ticket prices just as customers arrive.

“Introducing MDR on UPI at the start of festive season could not have come at a more challenging time for the industry,” says Santosh Katariya, President of the Clothing Manufacturers Association of India. Katariya explains retailers were already working to revive demand and improve margins and argued that an additional digital-payment cost could put further pressure on the system.

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Bigger baskets, bigger leakage

The mathematics become more visible with high-value festive purchases. Consider an ethnic and bridal-wear outlet in Ahmedabad’s Ratanpole market. A family shopping basket comprising a silk sherwani, two women's salwar suits and accessories could total Rs 18,500. At a 0.4 per cent MDR, the retailer would incur Rs 74 on that single transaction.

At 120 comparable transactions a day over 10 peak shopping days, the cumulative cost would cross Rs 88,000. For a retailer already carrying substantial seasonal inventory and working-capital exposure, such costs can quickly become significant. Stakeholders say some merchants are responding with cash discounts or by splitting transactions below the Rs 2,000 threshold. If sustained, that could reverse some of the digital-payment gains made across India's traditional retail network.

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Formalisation faces a new friction

The industry's larger concern extends beyond the payment charge itself. Retailers argue that making digital transactions more expensive could encourage a shift towards cash at precisely the point when India's retail economy has been moving towards greater traceability.

“Small merchants will now think twice about whether to accept cash or UPI,” opines Kumar Rajagopalan, CEO, Retailers Association of India. He argues a fee attached to higher-value digital transactions could make cash more attractive during the festive period and potentially weaken the formal transaction trail supporting GST reporting.

The industry is also questioning whether a uniform MDR is appropriate for account-to-account UPI payments. Rajagopalan explains transactions funded directly from bank accounts should be treated differently from UPI payments linked to credit lines, where a merchant fee may reflect a different underlying cost structure. The association has called for the government to bear the cost of normal UPI transactions, arguing that digital payments generate traceability and support tax compliance.

EASITEX

Organised retail has more room

The potential competitive impact is uneven. Large apparel chains and department-store networks have greater scale to negotiate payment arrangements with acquiring banks or absorb relatively small transaction costs within their operating structures.

Traditional high-street retailers have less room. Independent clothiers and semi-organised operators, which account for over 60 per cent of India's domestic textile distribution as per industry estimates, operate with tighter working-capital cycles and fewer avenues for spreading incremental costs. That creates a potential channel divide: organised retailers may be better positioned to retain digital checkout as standard practice, while smaller merchants could increasingly use cash discounts or other mechanisms to reduce payment costs.

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A digital retail test

The issue arrives at a critical juncture for India's apparel economy. The domestic apparel market is estimated at around $105 billion, with industry projections pointing towards $135 billion. The sector represents over 20,000 manufacturers and hundreds of thousands of independent retailers and clothiers.

Over the past decade, UPI has helped move this fragmented retail network from predominantly cash-based transactions towards bank-settled, digitally traceable commerce. The apparel industry's objection is therefore not simply about a 0.4 per cent cost. It is about whether adding a charge to high-value digital transactions changes merchant behaviour at the very point when festive purchasing generates some of the year's largest baskets.

As trade bodies prepare representations to the Ministry of Finance and the National Payments Corporation of India, the immediate test will be whether the new payment economics remain a marginal operating cost or becomes an incentive for India's high-street apparel trade to put cash back at the centre of the festive checkout.

SUSTAINABILITY