Fast fashion loses momentum as India’s shoppers demand value and longevity
21 January 2026, Mumbai
India’s fashion retail industry is no longer moving in one direction. It is splitting cleanly and decisively into two distinct lanes. On one side are brands built on performance, utility, and longevity.
On the other are legacy fast-fashion and trend-driven labels struggling to hold consumer attention in a more cautious, value-conscious market.
Financial filings for FY25 reveal that this difference is no longer anecdotal, it is structural.
While brands such as Uniqlo and Nike are posting double-digit revenue growth and improving profitability, several established Western labels, including Zara, Marks & Spencer, and Benetton, are either stagnating or contracting.
The data suggests that Indian consumers, particularly urban Gen Z and millennials, are quietly rewriting the rules of fashion consumption placing function ahead of fleeting trends.
This shift marks the end of the post-pandemic “revenge shopping” cycle and the beginning of a more rational, utility-driven phase in Indian retail.
From seasonal trends to everyday performance
The strongest signal from FY25 numbers is the growing preference for apparel that delivers measurable value, comfort, durability, fabric innovation, and versatility. Consumers are increasingly asking not what’s new, but what works. Uniqlo India has emerged as the clearest beneficiary of this recalibration.
The Japanese retailer reported a 44 per cent jump in revenue, crossing Rs 1,100 crore, while more than doubling its profit after tax. The brand’s ‘LifeWear’ philosophy anchored in functional fabrics such as Heattech, Airism, and UV-cut materials has resonated with consumers navigating hybrid work, active urban lifestyles, and rising living costs.
In contrast, Zara’s India business recorded barely 1 per cent growth, underscoring how rapidly trend saturation and frequent style churn are losing their appeal.
Marks & Spencer’s Reliance Retail joint venture saw revenues fall by 12 per cent, while Benetton slipped into negative territory. Industry executives point out that this is not a rejection of fashion but a demand for justification. Apparel now has to earn its place in the wardrobe. The economics behind a more careful consumer
Macroeconomic pressures have played a crucial role in accelerating this transition. Inflation in housing, food, education, and healthcare has tightened discretionary budgets, even among the urban middle class. At the same time, job market uncertainty especially in tech and startups has dampened impulse spending.
Although total trade turnover during the 2025 festive season rose by an estimated 25 per cent year-on-year, the benefits were unevenly distributed. Shoppers spent but selectively. Brands that offered a clear value proposition captured growth, while those relying on brand legacy or logo appeal struggled to convert footfalls into meaningful sales.
Nike India’s 14 per cent growth in FY25 reflects this. Riding the athleisure and fitness wave, the brand has aligned itself with a broader cultural shift toward wellness, performance, and everyday athletic wear. R
etail consultants note that sneakers, performance tees, and training wear are now viewed as multi-purpose investments rather than discretionary indulgences.
India’s apparel market at an inflection point
India’s apparel market is projected to reach $130-150 billion by 2030, pushed up by a young population, increasing urbanization, and rising brand penetration. Crucially, organized and branded retail is gaining share from the unorganized sector, particularly in metros and tier-one cities.
Functional and performance-led brands are leveraging this transition more effectively. Uniqlo, which entered India in 2019, has focused on deepening its metro presence rather than aggressive store expansion, while tightly integrating offline and digital channels.
Nike, operating through a renewed distribution strategy, has concentrated on brand-led storytelling and community-driven fitness culture. Fast-fashion players are not exiting the market but their dominance is no longer assured.
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The financial scorecard tells the story
The clearest evidence of this bifurcation comes from FY25 revenue data disclosed in Registrar of Companies (RoC) filings:
Brand FY24 revenue (Rs cr) FY25 revenue (Rs cr) Growth (%) Uniqlo 815 1,176 45% Nike 1,180 1,344 14% Zara 2,769 2,782 1% Benetton 773 746 -3% M&S Reliance 1,742 1,537 -12% The table highlights a widening performance gap. Uniqlo’s growth stands out not just in percentage terms but also in scale, indicating strong repeat purchases and expanding basket sizes.
Nike’s steady growth reflects resilience in the premium activewear segment. In contrast, Zara’s flat performance suggests market saturation, while Benetton and M&S signal deeper structural challenges rather than temporary slowdowns.
Uniqlo’s India playbook
Uniqlo’s India success offers a case study in how functional retail can outperform trend-led models. The brand’s disciplined SKU strategy fewer styles, longer shelf lives, and minimal discounting has allowed it to maintain a 15 per cent profit margin in FY25, an exception in a sector notorious for margin erosion.
By emphasizing cost-per-wear rather than entry price, Uniqlo has aligned itself with sustainability-conscious Gen Z consumers who prefer fewer, better-quality garments. Its avoidance of micro-trends has insulated it from fashion volatility while enabling better inventory planning and supply-chain efficiency.
In a market where deep discounting often masks weak demand, Uniqlo’s full-price sell-through has become a competitive advantage.
A structural reset, not a passing phase
Retail veterans argue that the struggles of brands like Zara and M&S are not cyclical. As an analyst points out, Indian consumers are consciously moving toward functionality as incomes stagnate and living costs rise. This has led to a hollowing out of the middle.
Consumers are either trading down to ultra-value brands such as Zudio or trading up to high-utility premium labels like Nike and Uniqlo. Trend-led mid-premium brands are being squeezed from both ends.
This reset forces legacy Western brands to rethink their India strategies either by integrating performance-driven design or by repositioning sharply on value. What comes next for Indian fashion retail.
The Rs 5.4 trillion festive trade in late 2025 provided short-term liquidity relief, but it did not reverse underlying consumer behavior.
The next growth phase in Indian fashion will likely be defined by masstige positioning where quality, comfort, and versatility are the primary differentiators.
Brands that successfully blend technical innovation with everyday wearability stand to gain disproportionate market share. Those that continue to rely on fast cycles, heavy markdowns, and aesthetic churn risk being sidelined.
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