02 August 2023, Mumbai
India Couture Week (ICW) 2023, organised by the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) in association with Reliance Industries is India’s most-awaited nine-day fashion extravaganza and this year, its 19th edition kicked off at Delhi’s Taj Palace Hotel on July 25 with the show opener being Falguni Shane Peacock’s portfolio.
The last day is August 2 which will be closed off by Rahul Mishra’s show and so far Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna, Tarun Tahiliani, Varun Bahl, Gaurav Gupta, and Kunal Rawal are amongst the hot designers who have presented their collections.
Bollywood personalities such as Athiya Shetty and Ananya Pandey bedazzled the guests at shows by Anamika Khanna and Rimzim Dadu respectively, whilst Ranbeer Kapoor showcased Kunal Rawal’s famous “lungi-pants”.
According to the Chairman of the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), Sunil Sethi, the work my India’s immensely talented fashion designers at the annual ICW event is gaining a lot of international attention as these star designers are growing their international clientele.
Fashion designer Kunal Rawal does it differently
Celebrity fashion designer Rawal presented his much-anticipated men’s occasion wear collection titled “Dhoop Chhao”, meaning light and shade. According to Rawal, the younger generation of Indian men is not only prioritizing on the comfort factor of occasion wear, but also going in for cleaner and sharper silhouettes.
The star piece of the collection was the lungi-pants which was made even more of a showstopper as Bollywood hero Ranbeer Kapoor walked the runway in them. Clearly a technology fanboy, Rawal went in with 3D printing, metallic highlights, glow-in-the-dark color-washed fabrics, and maintained a strict zero-waste pattern-cutting technique.
Heritage
Inspired by India’s rich legacy of diversity – the collection took elements of the diverse architectural shapes, textures, and hues to create sensational pieces resplendent with three-dimensional motifs, embossed embroidery, and the ultimate feel of luxury.
Rawal’s optimism about India’s presence on the global fashion map is evident. He feels that especially in menswear, Indian fashion design is relevant.
The youthful spirit of India serves as an endless source of inspiration to designers and its couture transcends geographical boundaries, catering to modern global grooms who seek classical yet contemporary aesthetics.
Rawal firmly believes that Indian couture can leave an indelible mark on the world stage, driven by the passion for pushing the boundaries of modern-day couture.
The veteran designer celebrates the glorious Gujarat
On July 28th, JJ Valaya presented his new collection titled Baroda at the ICW event. The theme celebrates the legacy and opulence of Gujarat’s art, design, fabrics, and handwork. The designer split the show into three parts, with the first part being “Art Deco”, a sophisticated fusion of the Gujarati craft of Lipan with Mughal inlay motifs set on quirky Art Deco lines.
The second chapter titled Nomade was a nod to the Kutchi tribals known for their applique mirror-work which was inlaid in contemporary styles.
Scintillating
The third section was titled Royale wherein Gujarat’s legacy fabric Mashu was presented through block patterns inspired by Azulejo tiles from Portugal. Valaya had an interesting narrative about why Gujarat.
He said that between the 16th and 19th Century, the state underwent a succession of rulers, from the Mughals and the Marathas to the British with a brief Portuguese interlude and each left some form of art and craftsmanship to meld in with the local ones.
Bollywood favorite Dad themes collection on water
On July 30th, designer Rimzim Dadu, presented her collection themed Hydrochromic – using her signature metallic textile with sculpted garments that gave the impression of water’s fluidity. The men’s suits came with bold 3D floral decorations.
Jewellery designer Varuna D Jani showcased her creations on the models in this show where the star attraction was Ananya Pandey sashaying the runway in a “molten gold leaf” bustier and skirt.
On its Facebook page, the brand announced that the collection was a meditation on abstract perception and fluidity of thought that ebbs and flows like water.
